Geo College

Guide to Finding Your First Cache

This information is provided by Groundspeak.com.

Step 1  Researching the Cache
Keep in mind that distances can be deceiving. When you are using your GPS unit to find a cache, the unit only knows how close the site is as the crow flies (a direct line). You may be a mile from the cache, but there may be a river in the way, or a near-vertical climb involving 3 miles of switchbacks, or a mountain – you get the picture.
1. Buy a map of the area from your local camping store for those caches that are off a trail or too remote to drive close to. Topographical maps (which show features of the land like hills) are best, so you can get a good idea of the terrain you'll be crossing. You’ll also know whether to bring your Honda Civic or rent a Land Rover.
2. For car geocaches (ones you can drive to and walk a short distance), use MapBlast. Geocaching.com provides you with a link to MapBlast so you can get directions to that location. Make sure to zoom in on the location to make sure it's near a road. MapBlast can only get you so far!
3. If you have a good idea of the area, you can navigate via the GPS unit. This is best when the park is small. This is also the most challenging, and is not recommended for your first hunt.

You'll most likely need to do all three things to prepare and reach the geocache, though our experience has shown different combinations for each cache. I'd always start with one of the online map sites first to get an idea of the area, then decide on whether you need to buy a map or use what you have.

Since this is your first time, it's also ok to read the stash notes, look at a picture of the cache, or read other people’s experiences finding the cache. Some may be visible from 20 feet away, while others in more trafficked areas may be buried under some rocks (or in one case, in a World War II bunker!). Getting within a mile or two of the site isn't usually too difficult - it's the last mile that'll get you every time.

Last Updated (Saturday, 09 January 2010 23:24)

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Don't Call the Pest Control

What is a Travel Bug?

Simply put, a Travel Bug is a trackable tag that you attach to an item. This allows you to track your item on Geocaching.com. The item becomes a hitchhiker that is carried from cache to cache (or person to person) in the real world and you can follow its progress online.

What does a Travel Bug do?

It's really up to the owner of the bug to give it whatever task they desire. Or no task at all. The fun of a travel bug is inventing new goals for the Travel Bug to achieve. One Bug's goal may be to reach a specific country, or travel to 10 countries.

How do Travel Bugs work?

Each Travel Bug has its own unique tracking number stamped on it. This tracking number is used as proof by the user that they found the item. It also doubles as a way for the user to locate the personal web page for the travel bug.

Travel Bugs are tracked with the help of users who go online and "grab" them from caches, or receive them from users. The idea is by picking up and dropping off Travel Bugs on the web site you are mirroring the Bug's real world adventures. Each Travel Bug has its own "diary" that follows its movements.

What do I do if I find a Travel Bug?


Don't panic! You have already made the first step by visiting this web site, where you can log that you found it. We have a how-to page that explains in more detail how to pick up and drop off Travel Bugs.

I think I found a Travel Bug but there was no tag. Is it a Travel Bug?


Probably not. Some people have created their own systems for tracking objects. If it doesn't have a tracking number it isn't tracked on Geocaching.com. With exception to some geocoins, you should also see the Travel Bug barcode logo for it to be a legitimate Travel Bug.

Do you track geocoins?


Yes. We track USA Geocoins and Moun10bike geocoins through Geocaching.com.

Is there any Travel Bug etiquette?


Use the Golden Rule when you find a Travel Bug. Most owners would rather see their travel bugs do a lot of travelling, so try not to hold on to a travel bug for too long. If you plan on holding onto the bug for more than 2 weeks, make sure to send a courtesy email to the owner letting them know.

Last Updated (Thursday, 21 January 2010 10:53)

 

Coins, Coins, Coins

What is a Geocoin?
A geocoin is a special coin created by individuals or groups of geocachers as a kind of signature item or calling card. Like Travel Bugs, each geocoin is assigned a unique tracking ID which allows them to travel from geocache to geocache or to be passed amongst friends, picking up stories along the way.

How do Geocoins work?

Because each geocoin is assigned a unique tracking number its progress can be tracked online through logs which the finder posts. There are different types of logs which can be made on a geocoin's personal home page, whether for virtually picking up or dropping off the coin, or simply for "discovering" the coin. You’ll have the opportunity to share your thoughts on the geocoin page and to upload any photos associated with it. In addition, by logging a geocoin your online collection will reflect that you found that particular coin.

What do I do if I find a Geocoin?

Don't panic! You have already made the first step by visiting this web site, where you can log that you found it. We have a How to Use a Geocoin page that explains in more detail how to pick up and drop off geocoins.

I found a Geocoin but the website doesn’t recognize the tracking number!
To log a geocoin on the website you need to know the tracking number stamped on the coin itself. However, not all geocoins are trackable here, so be sure to check the coin to see if another website URL is stamped on it, or ask around to find out more information. All trackable geocoins on Geocaching.com will contain the phrase “Trackable at Geocaching.com”. Take care not to confuse a series number like “302” with the tracking number, which will typically be a combination of letters and numbers.

Is there any Geocoin etiquette?
The most common question on etiquette relates to what to do if you find a Geocoin. Keep it? Move it to another geocache? The answer always depends on the goal its owner has set for it. Usually the best way to find the answer to these questions is to visit the geocoin’s personal home page and read the description it contains. If there is a theme or special instructions from the owner you should do your best to adhere to the geocoin’s goal, or send an email to the owner for more clarification.
In addition, selling a coin which doesn’t belong to you is generally frowned upon unless you have received express permission from its owner.

How can I stop someone from selling a geocoin I gave them?

If you create your own series of geocoins and wish to prevent people from selling them, it is recommended you activate all of your coins on Geocaching.com before they leave your possession. This gives you a claim to ownership and, once reported, allows us to deactivate the coin at your request. If you have given any geocoins away which have not been activated, we consider it to be a transfer of ownership and cannot intervene. Think ahead!

Last Updated (Thursday, 21 January 2010 10:54)

 

GPS Series by Blueye: Lesson 4

Downloading Waypoints from Geocaching.com

Now that you have mastered how to enter a waypoint manually, and have done this a dozen times, entering them wrong about a third of the time, you will want to learn how to transfer many waypoints at one without actually having to enter them yourself. I will assume that you read the previous lesson on what to look for in a GPS and took my advice that you want to be able to download waypoints to the GPS.


Software
Before you can get started, you will need software that will allow you to receive the waypoints on your computer, and will turn those waypoints into the format recognized by the GPS unit that you own. If you bought a Magellan, you might have received software for that purpose.

Fortunately, there are some freeware options to choose from. I am only listing two of them here, but if you read the forums on this subject you can learn about the others. I am all about keeping things simple, and to me, that means EasyGPS. EasyGPS will work with Garmin, Lowrance and Magellan GPS units. Another popular software option is the Geocaching Swiss Army Knife, or GSAK. GSAK works with Garmin or Magellan GPS units. EasyGPS is free, and they have other products that offer more features and cost money. GSAK is free for 21 days, and then you get a reminder to pay for it. To me, that is not free. Start with EasyGPS if you are not sure you want to make an investment. You can always buy another product later! Because of that, my descriptions below will be for EasyGPS.

Regular vs. Premium Membership
I also recommend EasyGPS because it will work with both .loc and .gpx downloads from Geocaching. Regular (free) Geocaching accounts allow .loc downloads, Premium Geocaching accounts allow .gpx downloads. The difference, besides the cost of a Premium membership for Geocaching.com is that .gpx will have more than just the cache name and coordinates. Don't panic and don't spend any money unless you want to - you can successfully Geocache with the free membership and its .loc files.

Getting the Waypoints from a Standard Search
OK, you have software, and you have your Geocaching account. Log in to Geocaching and search for caches. When you get your search results, you will see 20 caches listed on a page. At the bottom of the page, there is a button labeled "Check All." Click that button. Notice that the box at the end of each cache now has a check mark. You have just selected 20 caches to download at once. Yippee! What if you don't want one of two of them? Just click on that specific box and it has been excluded from your download.

Before you get excited and scroll to the next page on Geocaching.com, you need to actually complete the download. Click on "Download Waypoints." What should happen is that your computer will recognize your waypoint software and ask if you want to open or save a file. The choice is yours - I usually open it. You are now halfway done. If you want to get MORE waypoints, you can scroll to the next page and repeat. This will open a new file, but that is OK. When you are done choosing and downloading 20 waypoints at a time, you can copy them from one document and paste them all in the same document. Save your work. Your downloading is complete.

Premium Membership has its Perks
Another feature of Premium Membership is the ability to generate what are called Pocket Queries. These allow you to query up to 500 caches at once based on criteria that you specify. You get to have the .gpx file for them e-mailed to you and you can open it from there. This is very tempting if you have really caught the Geocaching bug. However, I am focusing on the basics, so I'm just mentioning that you have options, and as noted before, options cost money.

Sending to the GPS Unit.
OK. I have completed my download and saved my work? Now what? First, attach your GPS to your computer, using the cable that came with it. With EasyGPS, you choose "send to GPS" from the GPS item on the menu bar. You will have to tell the software what GPS you are using, and it will convert the file to a compatible format. Now here is where things get different again. Some units (Garmins) just send the data to the GPS and append it to a file on the GPS. Other units (Magellans) will have you save the data in a new format, and you will then have to move the file from your computer to the GPS using drag and drop, just like you would on your computer. Now, when you power up your GPS, you will see all of the waypoints in your saved file, ready for you to find!

What about other software/GPS units?
They're out there. I'm not an expert on all of the brands, so I think it best that you do your own research. The Groundspeak forums on Geocaching.com are full of threads about this very subject. If you do not see a thread for your GPS, post a question yourself and the community will help you out. In keeping with my KISS method to Geocaching (Keep it Simple Silly!) I am sticking to the explanation of a single product. Most products will work in a similar manner.

Recap:
Get Waypoint Software
Download Waypoint from Geocaching.com
Save Download
Send to GPS
Start Caching!

 

GPS Series by Blueye: Lesson 3

How to use the GPS

This is going to be a very high level lesson because it would be impossible to document the how to for every possible GPS unit on the market. Instead, I am going to take you through the basic steps to get you started with Geocaching.


Power Up
Your handheld GPS unit will need a power source, and this means batteries. I highly recommend that you invest in rechargeable batteries. Not only will this cut down on your expenses in this regard, it is more environmentally friendly, and they can also be used during hurricanes for other devices in your home - they will serve a dual purpose. If you plug in the charger before bed, they will be ready to use by morning.

I also recommend that you do have a couple of "emergency batteries" of the non-rechargeable type. These would be used in a pinch - if your rechargeables lose their charge or if you will be using your unit for a very brief period - where it is not practical to charge up the rechargeable batteries. Very important - weak batteries make your GPS less accurrate.

Next, put the batteries in the GPS unit, making certain to get the positive/negative ends lined up correctly. Everything I cover after this point will require you to read the "quick start" documentation for your device and determine what buttons to push to get the desired results. Most GPS companies make their manuals available online as well, so if you have lost your documentation or your unit is a hand me down from someone else, you should be able to find the instruction somewhere.

Get Signal
Power on the GPS receiver. The unit will begin to acquire satellite signal. Do not do this when you are inside your house - it's a waste of time. You should be either outside or in your car. You should see a display that shows the various satellites being acquired. This is one of the "navigation" screen displays. Until your unit has acquired at least three signals, it will not be able to navigate with any accuracy. To ensure that you get good results, you should acquire signals from four satellites. It is not possible to acquire all 24, nor is it necessary. 4 is enough for a successful Geocaching experience. Some units will tell you when you are "ready to navigate." If you are powering up for the first time, or you have changed your geographic position substantially since the last time you powered up, it will take a long time to acquire signals. If you turned it off in your driveway the last time you used it, and are turning it back on there, or nearby, the time to acquire will be much shorter. If you are very far off, some units will ask you to tell you where in the world you are so they can shave some time off the search.

Once you have a signal, you are able to use the unit to navigate. There are different navigation displays. There is a map view that will only be detailed if you have the mapping software and have loaded those maps. Otherwise, it will be a very general map, possibly even a state level map! You can find geocaches without the detailed map view. They do help navigate neighborhoods that are not laid out on a grid, but these maps do cost extra. There will also be a display showing the coordinates, and there will be a compass view. The compass view is the one you need to locate a cache.

Mark Waypoints
Before you can locate a cache, you must have a waypoint loaded in the GPS. This is known as "marking" a waypoint. Some units have buttons or menu options to "mark." Others might have you add to the "database." This is one feature where reading your manual is pretty important. When you mark a waypoint, the default coordinates are where you are standing at the moment. This is good if you want to mark where your car is before heading off into the woods, but if you want to go somewhere else, you have to use the buttons/joystick on the GPS to enter the coordinates that you obtained from the GC website.

Find Waypoint

Once a waypoint is entered, you are not quite done. In order to naviagate to the waypoint, you need to "Go To" it. This is the term used for selecting a waypoint to navigate to. You will have to display the list of waypoints stored in the GPS receiver and select the one you want to "go to." Once you have done that, you will want to change the display to the compass view.

The compass view will show you the compass points, an arrow that should point in the direction of the cache, and a distance you are from your target. Note the direction of the arrow and take a few steps. The distance should decrease, and the arrow should point straight ahead. You may need to play with the display options of the GPS receiver (sorry, but you will need to see your manual again. However, if you do this once, you never have to look it up again!). Keep walking toward your target until the distance gets down to within a couple of feet. You are now close enough to locate the cache! One thing to keep in mind - If you change direction or turn around abruptly, you may need to take a few steps before the compass adjusts and points you in the right direction.

Once you locate the cache, you may or may not want to delete the waypoint. On one hand, keeping things you have found already gets confusing, and eventually you will run out of space for new things. On the other hand, no harm is done in keeping the information. This is your choice.

After you enter a few geocaches, you will notice something. Entering them is time consuming and prone to errors. You will want to be able to upload coordinates - transfer many at once - into the GPS receiver. Even when you have mastered the upload, you still need to know how to mark a waypoint; either to go to a next stage of a multi cache, or to collect information for when you are ready to place a cache of your own.

Placing Your Own Caches
I'll cover uploading in another lesson, but I want to say something about marking waypoints for your own cache placements. Once you select a spot, take many waypoints for comparison. Do not do this by standing in one place. Take a waypoint, walk away, walk back, take another. Repeat. If you are in a field with open sky, maybe 5 or 6 will give you a good idea about the accuracy of the coordinates. If you are in the woods, take many, many more and use them to determine the most likely cache location for your posting. The more you waypoints you take, the more reliable your results. Test your results by using the "go to" function with the coordinates you plan to post.

Key takeaways from this lesson - familiarize yourself with the quick start features in your GPS receiver manual - specifically how to change the naviagation display screens, how to mark a waypoint, and how to navigate to a waypoint. If you have lost your manual, the manuafacturer should have it online. Lastly - reliable, charged batteries are important to a reliable signal and accurate results, both in marking waypoints and in navigation.

Last Updated (Saturday, 09 January 2010 22:57)

 
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